Cartellate: A Taste of Puglia

My Nonna Emilia, with her flour-dusted apron and twinkling eyes, always made the most incredible Cartellate during the holidays. The aroma of warm wine, frying dough, and sweet cinnamon would fill her tiny kitchen, a sensory symphony that signaled the start of our family celebrations. These weren’t just cookies; they were edible heirlooms, each delicate spiral a tangible piece of our heritage. I can almost taste Nonna’s love in every bite.

Recipe Overview

• Prep Time: 45 minutes
• Cook Time: 50 seconds per batch
• Total Time: Overnight + 1 hour
• Yields: 48 cookies
• Serves: 1
• Dietary Type: Vegetarian

Ingredients

• 3 cups all-purpose flour
• 1/3 cup sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 cup dry white wine, warmed
• 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
• Vegetable oil, for frying
• 1 lemon, finely grated zest
• Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting
• Ground cinnamon, for dusting

Equipment Needed

• Large bowl
• Whisk
• Work surface
• Plastic wrap
• Rolling pin
• Cookie sheet
• Medium saucepan
• Wire skimmer
• Large baking sheet
• Rack

Instructions

1. In a large bowl, whisk together the all-purpose flour, sugar, and salt.
2. Create a well in the center of the dry ingredients. Pour in the warmed dry white wine and extra virgin olive oil.
3. Gradually stir the flour mixture into the wet ingredients until a dough starts to form.
4. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface and knead it gently until smooth. This may take a few minutes; avoid over-kneading.
5. Cut the dough in half and flatten each piece into a disk shape.
6. Wrap each disk tightly in plastic wrap and let them rest at room temperature for 30 minutes. This allows the gluten to relax, making the dough easier to roll out.
7. On a lightly floured work surface, roll out one of the disks into a 12-inch square, aiming for a thickness of about 1/8 inch. The thinner the dough, the crisper the cookies will be.
8. Cut the rolled-out dough into 1/2-inch-wide strips using a sharp knife or a pizza cutter.
9. Carefully wrap each strip around itself to form a loose coil or rosette shape. Secure the end by gently pressing it onto the coil. Don’t make the coils too tight, as they will expand slightly during frying.
10. Transfer the shaped coils to a cookie sheet lined with parchment paper.
11. Repeat steps 7-10 with the remaining disk of dough.
12. Let the coils dry overnight, uncovered, at room temperature. Turning them once halfway through the drying process helps ensure even drying. This crucial step is what gives the Cartellate their signature crispy texture.
13. The next day, pour about 2 inches of vegetable oil into a medium saucepan. Heat the oil over medium heat until it reaches a temperature of 300°F (150°C). Use a candy thermometer to ensure accurate temperature control.
14. Set a wire rack over a large baking sheet. This will provide a place for the fried cookies to drain.
15. Using a wire skimmer or a slotted spoon, carefully transfer 4 or 5 coils to the hot oil. Avoid overcrowding the pan, as this will lower the oil temperature and result in greasy cookies.
16. Fry the coils until they are golden brown and crisp, about 50 seconds per batch. Monitor the color closely, as they can burn quickly.
17. Using the wire skimmer, transfer the fried coils to the rack-lined baking sheet to drain excess oil.
18. While the cookies are still warm, sprinkle them generously with finely grated lemon zest.
19. In a small bowl, mix equal amounts of confectioners’ sugar and ground cinnamon.
20. Sift the sugar and cinnamon mixture over the warm Cartellate, ensuring they are evenly coated.
21. Serve the Cartellate warm or at room temperature.

Expert Tips & Tricks

• Dough Consistency: The dough should be smooth and pliable. If it’s too dry, add a teaspoon of warm water at a time until it comes together. If it’s too sticky, add a tablespoon of flour.
• Rolling the Dough: Rolling the dough thinly is key to achieving a crispy texture. Use a rolling pin and apply even pressure to create a uniform thickness.
• Shaping the Cartellate: There are many ways to shape Cartellate. Experiment with different coil shapes and designs to find what you like best. You can even create small “baskets” or “roses.”
• Oil Temperature: Maintaining the correct oil temperature is crucial for even cooking. If the oil is too hot, the Cartellate will burn on the outside before they are cooked through. If the oil is too cool, they will absorb too much oil and become greasy.
• Flavor Infusion: Infuse the frying oil with a cinnamon stick or lemon peel for added flavor. Remove them before frying.
• Drying Time: Don’t skip the overnight drying step! This allows the Cartellate to develop their signature crispy texture. You can even dry them for up to 24 hours in a cool, dry place.

Serving & Storage Suggestions

Serve Cartellate as a delightful dessert or a festive snack. They are traditionally enjoyed during the Christmas season, but they can be made year-round. Arrange them attractively on a platter, perhaps with a sprig of rosemary or a few fresh lemon slices for garnish.

Store leftover Cartellate in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days. To maintain their crispness, avoid storing them in the refrigerator. If they lose their crispness, you can re-crisp them in a low oven (200°F or 95°C) for a few minutes. Do not freeze Cartellate, as freezing will affect their texture.

Nutritional Information

Nutrient	Amount per Serving	% Daily Value
Calories	2197.7 kcal	N/A
Calories from Fat	519 g	24%
Total Fat	57.7 g	88%
Saturated Fat	8 g	40%
Cholesterol	0 mg	0%
Sodium	1177.2 mg	49%
Total Carbohydrate	355.8 g	118%
Dietary Fiber	10.1 g	40%
Sugars	68.7 g	274%
Protein	38.8 g	77%

Note: Nutritional information is an estimate and may vary based on specific ingredients and cooking methods.

Variations & Substitutions

• Honey Glaze: Instead of confectioners’ sugar and cinnamon, drizzle the fried Cartellate with warm honey for a traditional Puglian treat. You can also add a sprinkle of chopped nuts, such as almonds or pistachios.
• Citrus Variations: Experiment with different citrus zests, such as orange or grapefruit, for a unique flavor profile.
• Anise Flavor: Add a teaspoon of anise extract to the dough for a subtle licorice flavor.
• Gluten-Free Cartellate: Substitute a gluten-free all-purpose flour blend for the regular flour. You may need to add a binder, such as xanthan gum, to help the dough hold its shape.
• Wine Alternatives: If you don’t have dry white wine, you can use a mixture of water and vinegar or a non-alcoholic white wine substitute.

FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)

Q: Why do I need to let the dough dry overnight?
A: The overnight drying process is essential for creating the signature crispy texture of Cartellate. It allows moisture to evaporate from the dough, resulting in a more delicate and crunchy cookie.

Q: Can I use a different type of oil for frying?
A: Yes, you can use other neutral-flavored oils with a high smoke point, such as canola oil or grapeseed oil. However, vegetable oil is a common and affordable choice.

Q: My Cartellate are burning too quickly. What should I do?
A: Reduce the heat of the oil. The oil temperature should be around 300°F (150°C). Also, make sure you are not overcrowding the pan, as this will lower the oil temperature and cause the cookies to absorb more oil.

Q: Can I make the dough ahead of time?
A: Yes, you can make the dough a day or two in advance and store it in the refrigerator. Be sure to bring it to room temperature before rolling it out.

Q: How do I prevent the Cartellate from becoming greasy?
A: Ensure the oil is hot enough before frying, and don’t overcrowd the pan. Use a wire skimmer to remove the fried cookies from the oil and place them on a wire rack to drain excess oil.

Final Thoughts

Cartellate are more than just cookies; they are a labor of love, a tradition passed down through generations. Don’t be intimidated by the process – embrace it! Gather your ingredients, roll up your sleeves, and immerse yourself in the joy of creating these edible treasures. Share them with your loved ones and savor the taste of Puglia, one crispy, cinnamon-dusted spiral at a time. And if you make them, please share a picture – I would love to see your beautiful creations!