Salt Cod With Onions, White Wine, and Cabbage: A Portuguese Classic

The first time I tasted bacalhau, or salt cod, was in a tiny, unassuming restaurant in Lisbon’s Alfama district. The aroma of the sea mingled with sweet onions and a hint of wine, creating an intoxicating invitation. The dish, served simply, was a revelation – the intensely flavorful cod, softened by careful rehydration, paired beautifully with the humble sweetness of caramelized onions and the earthiness of cabbage. It was a taste of history, a glimpse into Portugal’s maritime past, and a flavor I’ve been chasing ever since.

Recipe Overview

• Prep Time: 2 hours 5 minutes (Note: includes 24-48 hours of soaking time, changing the water every 12-24 hours)
• Cook Time: 1 hour
• Total Time: 2 hours 5 minutes
• Servings: 4
• Dietary Type: Pescatarian

Ingredients

• 1 1/2 lbs dried salt cod fish (or substitute 4 thick steaks of any fresh, firm-fleshed white fish)
• 1/4 cup olive oil
• 2 lbs onions, finely sliced (about 6-7 medium onions)
• 1 green cabbage
• 2 lbs boiling potatoes, also called waxy potatoes, peeled and thickly sliced
• 1/2 cup dry white wine, traditional Portuguese is vinho verde
• 1/2 teaspoon salt, estimated, to taste
• 1/2 teaspoon pepper, estimated to taste
• 1 teaspoon parsley, optional as a garnish
• 1 teaspoon piri-piri, optional as a garnish (can be store bought or many recipes already available)

Equipment Needed

• Medium-size (at least 10-12 inch diameter) frying pan
• Baking tray
• Medium-sized covered pan

Instructions

1. If using salt cod, cut into 4 pieces and reconstitute as described below; do not drain or dry the fish when done.
   Desalting the cod: Soak the salt cod in cold water for 24-48 hours, changing the water every 12-24 hours. Some people prefer to do the last reconstitution with milk for a richer flavor. This process is crucial for drawing out the excess salt and rehydrating the fish.

2. If using fresh fish (4 steaks), rinse, lightly salt, and leave in a colander for 1-2 hours.

3. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F (175 degrees C).

4. In a medium-size (at least 10-12 inch diameter) frying pan, warm up the olive oil, then add the onions to sauté for about 30 minutes. You want them golden, not brown, and soft. This is a basic cebollada. Keep the cebollada warm on the lowest stove top setting. A good cebollada is the cornerstone of Portuguese cuisine, its sweetness balancing the saltiness of the cod.

5. Prepare the cabbage by trimming and removing four of the largest and most perfect outside leaves. Cut out the thick, stiff stem at the base of each leaf. Use a heavy knife to flatten the leaves and make them more pliable.

6. Shred the heart of the cabbage and set it aside for now.

7. Wrap each of the 4 pieces of fish in a cabbage leaf.

8. Lay the wrapped fish on a baking tray, put in the oven, and bake for 20-30 minutes, “until the wrappers are as dry and brown as tobacco leaves”. This creates a wonderful steamy environment inside the cabbage, ensuring the fish stays moist and flavorful.

9. While the fish are cooking, prepare the potatoes as follows: Put a medium-sized covered pan (big enough to hold the potatoes and the shredded cabbage) on the stove top and put in the potatoes. Add the wine and enough water to cover and cook (medium heat) for about 10 minutes.

10. Remove the cover, add the shredded cabbage, and cover tightly to let the cabbage steam (turn up the heat a bit if necessary). Cook until the potatoes are tender, probably a total of 15-20 minutes. The potatoes should be easily pierced with a fork.

11. Remove the potatoes and cabbage with a slotted spoon to your serving dish.

12. Add the cooking juices from the potato/cabbage pot into the cebollada in the frying pan, taste and season with salt and pepper, then increase the heat to reduce the liquid until you have a thick rich sauce. Be careful not to over-salt, as the cod will already contribute saltiness.

13. Pour the sauce over the potato and cabbage base.

14. Remove the fish from the oven, place them on the potato and cabbage base, and open the wrappers.

15. Optionally, garnish with parsley and piri piri. A sprinkle of fresh parsley adds a vibrant touch, while a pinch of piri-piri provides a welcome kick.

16. Enjoy!

Expert Tips & Tricks

• Desalting shortcut: If you’re short on time, you can use very cold water for desalting and change the water more frequently (every 3-4 hours). However, a longer soak is always preferable for the best flavor.
• Boosting Flavor: For an extra layer of flavor, add a bay leaf and a few cloves of garlic to the potato and cabbage cooking water.
• Crispy Cabbage Leaves: For a crispier cabbage wrap, brush the leaves with olive oil before baking.
• Cebollada Perfection: Don’t rush the cebollada. Slow, gentle cooking is key to unlocking the onions’ natural sweetness and preventing them from burning.
• Sauce Consistency: If the sauce is too thin, you can thicken it with a cornstarch slurry (1 teaspoon cornstarch mixed with 1 tablespoon cold water).

Serving & Storage Suggestions

Serve this dish immediately after assembling. The flavors are best when the fish is hot and the sauce is freshly made.

Leftovers can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 2 days. To reheat, gently warm the fish, potatoes, and cabbage in a skillet over low heat, adding a splash of water or wine if needed to prevent drying. You can also reheat it in the oven at 300 degrees F (150 degrees C) for about 15 minutes. The texture of the fish may change slightly upon reheating, but the flavor will still be delicious. Freezing is not recommended as it can significantly alter the texture of the cod.

Nutritional Information

Nutrient	Amount per Serving	% Daily Value
Calories	985.1 kcal	N/A
Calories from Fat	163 g	17%
Total Fat	18.2 g	28%
Saturated Fat	2.8 g	14%
Cholesterol	258.6 mg	86%
Sodium	12302.2 mg	512%
Total Carbohydrate	82.3 g	27%
Dietary Fiber	12.6 g	50%
Sugars	20.1 g	80%
Protein	116.5 g	233%

Note: Nutritional information is an estimate and may vary based on specific ingredients and preparation methods.

Variations & Substitutions

• Fresh Fish: As the recipe states, if you can’t find salt cod, you can substitute with fresh, firm-fleshed white fish like halibut, cod, or sea bass. Adjust cooking time accordingly, as fresh fish will cook faster.
• Vegetarian Option: While salt cod is the star of this dish, you can create a vegetarian version by using smoked tofu or large portobello mushrooms in place of the fish. Marinate the tofu or mushrooms in a mixture of olive oil, lemon juice, and garlic for extra flavor.
• Spice Level: Adjust the amount of piri-piri to your preference. You can also use red pepper flakes or a dash of hot sauce.
• Cabbage Variety: While green cabbage is traditional, you can also use Savoy cabbage or even kale.
• Potatoes: Other waxy potatoes like Yukon Gold or red potatoes work well in this recipe.

FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)

Q: Why do I need to soak the salt cod for so long?
A: Soaking the salt cod is essential to remove the excess salt and rehydrate the fish. This process ensures that the final dish isn’t overwhelmingly salty and that the fish has a pleasant texture.

Q: Can I use pre-soaked salt cod?
A: Yes, you can find pre-soaked salt cod in some markets, which can save you time. However, it’s still a good idea to give it a quick rinse before using it.

Q: What is Vinho Verde?
A: Vinho Verde is a young, slightly effervescent Portuguese wine that is often used in cooking. If you can’t find it, any dry white wine will work as a substitute.

Q: How do I know when the cebollada is done?
A: The cebollada is done when the onions are soft, translucent, and golden in color. They should be sweet and slightly caramelized, but not browned or burnt.

Q: Can I make this dish ahead of time?
A: You can prepare the cebollada and cook the potatoes and cabbage ahead of time. Store them separately in the refrigerator. When you’re ready to serve, assemble the dish and bake the fish.

Final Thoughts

Salt Cod with Onions, White Wine, and Cabbage is more than just a recipe; it’s a journey to the heart of Portuguese cuisine. The humble ingredients, transformed by careful preparation and simple techniques, create a dish that is both comforting and deeply satisfying. I encourage you to try this recipe and experience the flavors of Portugal for yourself. Don’t be afraid to experiment with variations and make it your own. And if you do, please share your feedback – I’d love to hear about your culinary adventures! Pair this dish with a crisp Vinho Verde or a light-bodied white wine for the perfect Portuguese experience.