Salt Cod With Onions, White Wine and Cabbage: A Taste of Viana do Castelo

The scent of salt cod simmering with sweet onions instantly transports me back to a tiny, bustling restaurant in Lisbon. It was raining, the kind of relentless drizzle that seeps into your bones, but inside, the warmth of the kitchen and the aroma of bacalhau created an unforgettable haven. I remember the rich, savory flavor of the cod, the tender cabbage, and the comforting potatoes – a symphony of simple ingredients elevated to something truly special. It was a meal that spoke of history, tradition, and the enduring spirit of Portuguese cuisine.

Recipe Overview

• Prep Time: 2 hours 5 minutes (Note: This does not include the 24-48 hour soaking time for the salt cod)
• Cook Time: 1 hour
• Total Time: 3 hours 5 minutes (excluding salt cod soaking)
• Servings: 4
• Dietary Type: Pescatarian

Ingredients

• 1 1/2 lbs dried salt cod fish (or substitute 4 thick steaks of any fresh, firm-fleshed white fish)
• 1/4 cup olive oil
• 2 lbs onions, finely sliced (about 6-7 medium onions)
• 1 green cabbage
• 2 lbs boiling potatoes, also called waxy potatoes, peeled and thickly sliced
• 1/2 cup dry white wine, traditional Portuguese is vinho verde
• 1/2 teaspoon salt, estimated, to taste
• 1/2 teaspoon pepper, estimated to taste
• 1 teaspoon parsley, optional as a garnish
• 1 teaspoon piri-piri, optional as a garnish (can be store bought or many recipes already in Recipezaar)

Equipment Needed

• Medium-size frying pan (at least 10-12 inch diameter)
• Baking tray
• Medium-sized covered pan
• Heavy knife
• Colander
• Slotted spoon

Instructions

1. If using salt cod, cut into 4 pieces and reconstitute as described in the Introduction (soak in water for 24-48 hours, changing the water every 12-24 hours). Don’t drain or dry the fish when done. The soaking process is essential to remove excess salt and rehydrate the cod. Some people prefer to do the last reconstitution with milk for a richer flavor.
2. If using fresh fish (4 steaks), rinse, lightly salt, and leave in a colander for 1-2 hours. This allows the fish to firm up slightly and release excess moisture.
3. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F (175 degrees C). Make sure your oven is properly calibrated for even cooking.
4. In a medium-size (at least 10-12 inch diameter) frying pan, warm up the olive oil, then add the onions to sauté for about 30 minutes. You want them golden, not brown, and soft. This is a basic cebollada. Stir frequently to prevent burning and ensure even cooking. The onions should be deeply sweet and fragrant.
5. Keep the cebollada warm on the lowest stove top setting. This prevents it from cooling down while you prepare the other components of the dish.
6. Prepare the cabbage by trimming and removing four of the largest and most perfect outside leaves. Cut out the thick, stiff stem at the base of each leaf. These leaves will be used to wrap the fish.
7. Use a heavy knife to flatten the leaves and make them more pliable. This makes them easier to wrap around the fish and helps them cook evenly.
8. Shred the heart of the cabbage and set it aside for now. This will be cooked with the potatoes.
9. Wrap each of the 4 pieces of fish in a cabbage leaf. Ensure the fish is completely enclosed to keep it moist during baking.
10. Lay the wrapped fish on a baking tray, put it in the oven, and bake for 20-30 minutes, “until the wrappers are as dry and brown as tobacco leaves”. The cabbage leaves will act as a natural insulator, steaming the fish and infusing it with flavor.
11. While the fish are cooking, prepare the potatoes as follows: Put a medium-sized covered pan (big enough to hold the potatoes and the shredded cabbage) on the stove top and put in the potatoes.
12. Add the white wine and enough water to cover the potatoes and cook (medium heat) for about 10 minutes. The white wine adds a subtle acidity that complements the richness of the fish and onions.
13. Remove the cover, add the shredded cabbage, and cover tightly to let the cabbage steam. Turn up the heat a bit if necessary.
14. Cook until the potatoes are tender, probably a total of 15-20 minutes. Test the potatoes with a fork to ensure they are cooked through.
15. Remove the potatoes and cabbage with a slotted spoon to your serving dish. Use a large, shallow serving dish for an elegant presentation.
16. Add the cooking juices from the potato/cabbage pot into the cebollada in the frying pan, taste and season with salt and pepper, then increase the heat to reduce the liquid until you have a thick rich sauce. This step concentrates the flavors and creates a luscious sauce to bind the dish together.
17. Pour the sauce over the potato and cabbage base. Ensure the vegetables are evenly coated with the sauce.
18. Remove the fish from the oven, place them on the potato and cabbage base, and open the wrappers. The cabbage leaves can be discarded or eaten along with the fish.
19. Optionally, garnish with parsley and piri piri. The parsley adds a touch of freshness, while the piri piri provides a spicy kick.
20. Enjoy!

Expert Tips & Tricks

• Salt Cod Desalting: Don’t rush the desalting process. The longer the salt cod soaks, the less salty it will be. If you’re sensitive to salt, consider soaking it for the full 48 hours, changing the water frequently. Taste a small piece before cooking to check the salt level.
• Cebollada Perfection: The key to a perfect cebollada is patience. Low and slow cooking allows the onions to caramelize and develop their natural sweetness. Don’t overcrowd the pan, and stir frequently to prevent burning.
• Fish Doneness: The fish is done when it flakes easily with a fork. Be careful not to overcook it, as it can become dry.
• Sauce Consistency: If the sauce doesn’t thicken enough, you can add a small amount of cornstarch slurry (1 teaspoon cornstarch mixed with 1 tablespoon cold water).
• Flavor Boost: For an extra layer of flavor, add a bay leaf to the potato and cabbage cooking water.

Serving & Storage Suggestions

Serve this dish immediately for the best flavor and texture. It’s traditionally served family-style, with everyone helping themselves from a large platter. Garnish with fresh parsley and a sprinkle of piri-piri for a touch of heat.

Leftovers can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. To reheat, gently warm in a skillet over low heat, or in the microwave. The fish may become slightly drier upon reheating, so consider adding a splash of water or white wine to the pan to keep it moist. Freezing is not recommended, as the texture of the fish and potatoes may deteriorate.

Nutritional Information

Nutrient	Amount per Serving	% Daily Value
Calories	985.1 kcal	N/A
Calories from Fat	163 g	17%
Total Fat	18.2 g	28%
Saturated Fat	2.8 g	14%
Cholesterol	258.6 mg	86%
Sodium	12302.2 mg	512%
Total Carbohydrate	82.3 g	27%
Dietary Fiber	12.6 g	50%
Sugars	20.1 g	80%
Protein	116.5 g	233%

Note: Nutritional information is an estimate and may vary based on specific ingredients and preparation methods.

Variations & Substitutions

• Fresh Fish: If you can’t find salt cod, or prefer not to use it, any firm-fleshed white fish will work. Cod, halibut, or haddock are all good choices. Adjust the cooking time accordingly.
• Vegetarian Option: Substitute the fish with thick slices of grilled halloumi cheese or firm tofu.
• Spicy Twist: Add a pinch of red pepper flakes to the cebollada for extra heat.
• Wine Variation: If you don’t have vinho verde, any dry white wine will do. Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio are good choices.
• Cabbage Substitute: Savoy cabbage or kale can be used in place of green cabbage.

FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)

Q: Why is salt cod used in this recipe?
A: Salt cod was traditionally used as a way to preserve fish for long journeys. It also imparts a unique flavor and texture to the dish.

Q: How long does the salt cod need to soak?
A: The salt cod should soak for 24-48 hours, with frequent water changes, to remove excess salt.

Q: Can I use frozen fish instead of fresh or salt cod?
A: Yes, you can use frozen fish. Thaw it completely before cooking and pat it dry to remove excess moisture.

Q: What is vinho verde?
A: Vinho verde is a young, slightly effervescent Portuguese wine. It’s light and refreshing, making it a great pairing for seafood dishes.

Q: How can I make this dish less salty?
A: Ensure you soak the salt cod for the full 48 hours, changing the water frequently. You can also reduce the amount of salt added to the cebollada and potato/cabbage mixture.

Final Thoughts

This Salt Cod with Onions, White Wine and Cabbage is more than just a recipe; it’s a journey to the heart of Portuguese cuisine. It’s a celebration of simple ingredients transformed into a dish that’s both comforting and sophisticated. I encourage you to try this recipe and experience the flavors of Viana do Castelo. Share your creations and feedback, and consider pairing it with a crisp glass of vinho verde for the ultimate culinary experience. Bom apetite!